Those Eggos came from from the CVS on the corner of 97th and Lex, frozen hash browns were stuffed into breakfast sandwiches, and the egg foo young used in a BLT hyrbid at ABV originated inside the takeout Chinese joint across the street.īrunch should basically be McDonald’s with drinks.
The tactic persisted when he and his partners opened ABV on the other end of the block, featuring high-low mashups like octopus and spam, and an epic foie-gras fluffernutter. Often, that meant grabbing ingredients from around the restaurant-not foraging a la René Redzepi, but urban foraging in convenience stores and bodega freezers. The name dictated a focus on cheese, while kitchen and budget constraints required him to come up with dishes that would be easy to make and keep costs down. When I first encountered Corey Cova’s cooking, he was working in the food-nerd equivalent of Siberia, secrete d away in a pint-size bar called Earl’s Beer and Cheese on the far reach of the Upper East Side, helming a kitchen that most NBA players wouldn’t even be able to stand inside. But word quickly got out about Cova’s knack for unlocking bar-food fantasies you never even knew you had, and soon gastronauts who would normally never dream of going anywhere above 14th Street were heading uptown to 97th and Park for grilled cheese stuffed with pork belly and kimchi, and an Eggo waffle topped with seared foie gras, aged cheddar, and house-cured coffee bacon.Īs Cova tells it, a lot of that early menu-which still survives, to a large extent, in its original form-was a product of circumstance.
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